Korea- our home for another year

Hi all!

As most of you know by now, Nathan and I are staying in Korea for a second year.  As a matter of fact, August 16th marked our one year anniversary of living here and we are already over a week into our new contract.

We went back and forth on our decision for a while, but ultimately decided staying here for an additional year was the best thing for us.  It is a very bittersweet time for us as we miss our friends, family, and (let’s be honest) our dog more than ever.  However, we have a good thing here.  Living here gives us a lot of great opportunities to reach some of our life goals (saving, traveling, experiencing the world in new ways, studying a new language, etc).

Now that we have a year under our belt and most of our lesson plans already made, I’m hoping to budget my time well and be really productive over the next year.  As part of that, I hope to blog more often (I know I’ve made that promise in the past so if you don’t believe me than I can’t blame you).  

Check our blog again over the next few days as I hope to post about our amazing vacation!

Rachel 

 

Rachel has been bugging me and bugging me to blog. So I guess I ought to write up a little something.

The last 3 weekends have been pretty exciting here; I will describe them chronologically.

First was the Boseong Half Marathon. Shortly after my last half marathon was when I broke my skull. Therefor I was not able to keep up with the training the way I needed to. This spring I have been training as hard as I could when I found the time and it all paid off at this race. My time was only 5 minutes behind my last race time. This is exciting because this is the fist race I have ran in “invisible shoes” running sandals. For the most part it was pretty good although I ended up getting pretty numb and tingly on the balls of my feet.

The next weekend was my black belt test. I really didn’t want to write about it because I do not yet have the results. However, I guess I’m not allowed to wait forever. For the test I had to first perform 3 poomse (forms) chosen at random. Then I had to break a block, a re-breakable plastic block designed for this purpose. I had to use a “karate-chop” on the block.  Next was getting suited up in protective gear and demonstrating yup chagi,  ap chagi, and dolyo chagi (side kick, front kick, and roundhouse kick). Finally we had to spar for one minute with another black belt candidate. The sparring thankfully was body only, no head hits. After that we went home. I was really surprised by how crowded the gym was; seven hundred children tested for their poom belt (black and red, for people under 16) and about 40 adults tested for black and varying degrees of black.

Here is a LINK TO FIGHT VIDEO.!!!!!

Finally this last weekend was my co-teachers wedding. WOW! They do weddings differently here. First of all we show up at 11:30 AM and stand around waiting for the noon wedding. We turn in our wedding gift (the traditional Korean envelope of cash (really that’s what they ALL do )) and get 2 meal tickets for lunch. The wedding was the most ridiculous thing I have ever seen by a very long stretch. The groom entered to the Rocky  song, the couple entered under crossed swords, there were moving lights, flowers lowered from the ceiling, no bridal party just assistants that worked for the wedding hall. Frankly I cannot begin to describe it, hopefully pictures will help. After the wedding there was a quick buffet lunch of amazing foods and then we were rushed out at about 1:30 PM so more weddings would be had. Overall it was a VERY different wedding experience than I am used to but to each his own.

That’s pretty much all that has been going on.

-Nathan

Jindo Sea-parting Festival

Once a year in Jindo in the Jeollanam-do Province, the seas mysteriously part and visitors can walk through the sea from the mainland to a nearby island. This phenomenon is caused due to the difference in high tides and low tides, which creates a 2.8-kilometer-long road measuring 40 to 60 meters in width. Visitors can enjoy walking along the sea road, gathering abalone and various other fun activities. The spectacular sight of the waves parting is widely known and many people travel to Korea from all over the world just to witness this amazing event.

In my last blog post, I wrote that we were heading to Jindo for the weekend to attend this festival.  However, poor Nathan got pretty sick on Friday (mainly because of the reeeally long and curvy bus ride he has on Fridays… we’ll have to blog about that another time) so he wasn’t able to go.  I stayed and took care of him Friday, but then hopped on a bus early Saturday morning and headed to Jindo to meet up with some friends (our close ones that we often refer to as “the family”).  Four hours and two very curvy bus rides later , I arrived in Jindo and hopped on Sam & Kaylie’s scooter to meet up with everyone.

Once we were all together, we bought some galoshes (that can be seen in the pictures above) and headed to the festival.  We got to see a performance with singing and dancing as well as traditional outfits.  We then headed over and got to see some reeeeally adorable Jindo puppies.  Jindo dogs are special dogs that originated on the island.  They are really cute and, apparently, very loyal.   We then wandered down to the beach area to test out our galoshes (hence the pictures).  There were tons of adjumas (old women) everywhere gathering seaweed and digging for other sea creatures.  They were intense! After all that it was time for the sea to actually part.  To avoid the crowd  (there were A LOT of people),  we climbed over rocks and sludged through the sea mud.  We made it just in time to be in front and begin the walk on the “road” that slowly appeared as the sea parted.  It was really neat.  There were drummers that led the crowd and there were lots of star fish, crabs, and other sea creatures along the way.  It really did create quite a long and wide road.  A fake Moses even attended!   It was definitely worth the trip to see.

After the festival, we got some delicious Korean barbecue and went for some drinks.  While out for drinks we ran into some people from our orientation and others we know which was a lot of fun.  It was also kind of strange to see so many foreigners at the festival and to hear so much English.  It’s amazing how accustomed you get to tuning out people’s conversations when it’s in a language you can’t understand.  My mind was on overload hearing so many different English conversations.

Sunday morning we woke up and Sam fixed us some delicious “hoddeok”…  Korean pancakes filled with cinnamon, brown sugar, and sometimes nuts.  After eating and visiting, we gathered our stuff to head back to the bus terminal, but quickly discovered we were locked in Sam & Kaylie’s apartment.   I’m convinced they have the sturdiest door in all of Korea… for real.  Despite everyone’s best efforts, in the end it took some phone calls and a maintenance man (maybe he was locksmith, not sure) using a crow bar and screwdriver to break the lock off and give us our freedom.  I’m not sure what the guy was expecting when he opened the door, but I’m SURE it wasn’t 7 foreigners applauding him (hahaha).  Although I didn’t make it home at the time I was expecting, it made for a good laugh.  Major thanks to Sam & Kaylie for being such great hosts!  It was a really fun weekend.

Other than that, there’s no real news here except that SPRING IS FINAAALLY HERE!  The trees are blooming, the grass is green, and everyone is out and about.  It’s wonderful!  Everyone keeps telling us to enjoy it because it’ll soon be really HOT.  Apparently spring only last a couple of weeks here.  YIKES!  I’m really dreading that.  Spring is my favorite and I just wish it would last forever.  The good news is that we’ve been spending plenty of time outside lately and fully taking advantage of the weather.  I take a little walk after lunch everyday and it’s soooo nice!

I’ll try to post some pics on facebook sometime in the next few days because it has been WAY too long since I’ve done that and I know you are all anxiously waiting (haha).   As always, we love and miss you all!

Rachel

P.S.  This past weekend we traveled to Boseong to run a race and had a great time. I’ll make Nathan blog about it soon!

One of Nathan’s coworkers 효진 (Hyo Jin) invited us to dinner with he and his wife this past Tuesday night.   Hyo Jin was nice enough to give us a ride the restaurant and I was so surprised when a teacher from my school walked in with her 2 young children… the one who sits RIGHT across from me in the teachers’ office.   Her name is 선영 (Sun Young) and she just happens to be Hyo Jin’s wife.

We chatted over a delicious dinner…. grilled duck, duck soup, side of duck gizzards, etc.  It was really yummy with some really good side dishes.  The men sterotypically enjoyed lots of beer and soju, while Sun Young and I enjoyed maesil-cha (매실 차 – plum tea).  I had tasted it before but never knew the name.   I really like it and now I can actually ask for it, YAY!   Their children were running around the entire restaurant playing.  It didn’t seem to phase anyone, and it was actually quite refreshing to see.

After dinner, they insisted on paying for our meal and then invited us back to their apartment for some citron tea and fresh fruit.  We felt so badly we didn’t have a gift for them or anything, but agreed to go anyways.  I’m so glad that we did!  It was so neat to actually be in  a Korean’s home.  It seems strange to think this is the first time we’ve hung out with Koreans IN their home.  I am thankful for the experience.  It was neat to see their decorations and how they use their space so well.  Apartment living here doesn’t have to be shabby!  It was refreshing to see how it really is a home.

It was such a lovely time.  I got to learn a lot about Sun Young and her 2 adorable young children (ages 1 and 3).  The children were quite frightened of us with our blond(ish) hair and blue eyes at first but they eventually warmed up to us.  They were so sweet and kept repeating the most random English words they thought sounded funny.  It was neat to practice a little Korean with them.  The great thing about practicing with young kids is that they won’t laugh when you mess up!  I loved getting to know Sun Young better.  Before this we didn’t know much about each other since I don’t speak much Korean and she doesn’t speak much English, but we have always shared smiles .  She really has much better English than she says she does (but that is true for almost ALL Koreans).  She is SO sweet and we’ve been having a short language exchange after lunch ever since.  Yay for new Korean friends!

The most interesting part, though, was learning about Hyo Jin and his family background.  I’m not sure how the conversation started (maybe it was the soju, haha), but suddenly he was telling us the most interesting stories.   The short version goes something like this:

His father was a North Korean soilder who was captured and held as a POW in South Korea long before Hyo Jin was born.  When the war was over, he was given the choice to return home or stay in South Korea.  He chose to stay in South Korea, but struggled without a woman to take care of him (his words exactly, haha).  After many years, he met a woman who had recently escaped North Korea.  They married and had children, Hyo Jin being one of them.  They dealt with many hardships and constantly felt guilty for leaving their relatives still living in North Korea.

It was such an interesting and sad story and I felt honored that Hyo Jin shared it with us.  A few months ago I read “Nothing to Envy” (by Barabara Demick).  It’s a very interesting book about North Korea.   I definitely recommend it.  It’s entertaining yet informative.  It certainly made me take a much larger interest in the situation there.  Reading about it was one thing, but to hear it straight from a Korean’s mouth was another.  I’m not sure I have the right word to describe it.

Well I hope I didn’t ramble too much.  It’s time for me to finish my lesson planning for next week and to get home and pack for Jindo.  We’re heading to visit friends and go to the Sea-Parting Festival this weekend.  It’s also called “The Moses Miracle”.  The sea will part and we’ll get to walk through to a neighboring island.  It should be a fun time.  I’ll make Nathan blog about it next week!

Until next time,

Rachel

P.S.  Two side notes:

1) I’m not sure if many of you know, but Nathan was hired by the office of education here to work at a gifted school on Monday nights.  He teaches Science IN English and LOVES it!!!!  I’ll have to have him write a blog about it sometime.  It’s the highlight of his week!  His coteacher there is the one who invited us to dinner.

2) Nathan and I can both (finally) read Hanguel, aka Korean writing.  Nathan is much better than I am, but I’m getting there!

It’s been WAY too long.

First of all, a very special birthday shout out to my wonderful father, Stuart.  It’s his 60th today and I really wish I was there to celebrate with  him.  I love you so incredibly much Dad… HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!

Second of all, a big CONGRATULATIONS to my amazing friend Krista on the birth of her adorable little son!!! I still can’t believe it.  I am so proud of her and so excited to be an aunt to such an adorable little baby 🙂

Okay… now down to business.  Well folks, as you’ve noticed, I’ve been a total slacker when it has come to keeping up this blog.  I’m pretty ashamed that our last post was over 3 months ago… like REALLY ashamed.  I could feed you a lot of excuses but I won’t.  I’ve spent a lot of time in the past week reflecting on our time here so far.  During that time I decided that this blog is something that I certainly want to be more dedicated to… for so many reasons.  I love blogging because it helps me to process our challenges as well as the good/funny times.  I want to be able to look back and be glad we documented our experiences.  Even more important than that, is that this blog helps me to feel like I’m more connected to our friends and family back home (which I have REALLY been missing lately, by the way).  I mean, all you  guys read this blog and anxiously wait for the next post, right?  I want to commit to writing at least one blog a week. That is going to my goal.  You can certainly hold me accountable!

I’m not feeling very well today which is maybe what made me FINALLY take the time to write this, because I don’t have the energy for much else.  Anyways, I’ll keep it short but I do want to share a little story about my evening because it’s just a little too ridiculous not to share.

So it’s about 9:00 pm here and I’m laying in bed resting when someone starts continuously ringing the doorbell.  I force myself out of bed, and open the door.  It’s a Korean woman in her mid-forties (I think) that I don’t recognize.  She immediately pushes past me and barges into our apartment looking around.  I’m so baffled I can’t even speak.  She then turns to me and proceeds to yell at me and motion that I’m stomping on the floor and I need to be quiet.  I then realize that she must be our new neighbor that lives below us.  I kindly try to explain that I was in bed so it was not me making the noise.  She continues on her rant and when she realizes I don’t speak Korean, gets really angry.  I then receive a lovely tongue lashing which involved words like “foreigner”, “speak Korean”, etc, etc.  I told her sorry (in Korean mind you) and asked her to leave (in  English).  She then stormed upstairs to yell at our landlord about me.  I’m still a little baffled to be honest.

The point is, I’m having one of those really frustrating days where I just want to pack up everything and move out of this stupid mold invested apartment (I’ll save that topic for another entry).  Days like today just make me crave the familiarness of family and friends and a LANGUAGE that I can understand at all times.  In a positive light though, I am more and more thankful everyday for the little things in the states that I always took for granted… in this case, communication.

That’s all I got for now, but I’ll update again soon.  Miss and love you all more than you can imagine.

Thanks for reading!

Rachel

K-pop

Let me introduce you to K-pop folks!  I’m actually pretty amazed that Nathan and I have gone this long without blogging about K-pop.  I’d say it’s one of the more entertaining facets of day-to-day life here in South Korea.   You hear it on the radio, you see it all over the tv, you hear about it in the halls between classes, and our students are absolutely obsessed.   I’m getting ahead of myself though.

For those of you who have never heard the term (which I assume is most of you, since I never had before living here), Wikipedia classifies K-pop as “a musical genre consisting of electropop, hip hop, pop, rock, and R&B music originating in South Korea.”

Now I know it’s kind of cheating to quote Wikipedia twice in one blog, but they do a great job of explaining just how huge K-pop is.

South Korea is today one of the largest producers of contemporary music in Asia-Pacific. Their popular culture is today serving as a major driver of contemporary culture all across the Pacific Rim, with special reference to mainland China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan and Vietnam. The K-pop genre is currently moving towards a position in the region, similar to that enjoyed by American music in Europe and the West, up until the 1990’s. …

Now, there are SO many things I could say about K-pop.  Mostly, I just wish I could share all the ridiculous songs and music videos with you.  I’m not going to lie, it grows on you and sometimes I even find myself wanting to listen to it (although I’m not sure I should be admitting that).  Don’t ask me how, but K-pop is ridiculous AND amazing all at the same time.

Things about K-pop that make me laugh:

1. The bands are HUGE… not even kidding, there’s like 20 people in each group.  Just google and see for yourself.
2. The songs usually involve Konglish… which sometimes makes for some interesting lyrics.
3. The music videos.  Like most things Korean,  the music videos are overly dramatic and ridiculous.
4. The group names.  I’m not making these up:  2am, 2pm, Drunken Tiger, 2NE1, Shinee, Loveholic, Swing Girls, T-ara, Beast, Big Mama, Crying Nut
5. The nicknames the singers somehow end up with.  To name a few “G-dragon” and “Mr. Simple”

I couldn’t resist including the video above.  It’s a bit different from most K-pop, but great nonetheless.  I almost couldn’t believe it when I saw K-pop… Christmas style.  Hope you enjoy!

Until next time,

Rachel

 

 

 

A cup of chicken

So much has happened since I last posted on here.  Nathan is doing a much better job blogging than I am, so I hope you’re enjoying his blogs.  He tends to blog more about Korea and the culture and I tend to blog a little bit more about our personal life.  I think it makes for a good mix!

It’s late here so I’m going to keep this short.   I’ll have to write about my birthday and whatnot on another post.  For now I just wanted to share a quick fun experience I had today.

While walking home from school, I saw Nathan on his way to Taekwondo.  Being the wonderful wife that I am, I decided to take the long way home and walk him to the studio.  After leaving Nathan, I walked down a small street I’m not usually on.  Previously, I had noticed some small window vendors selling various foods and snacks here.  What I didn’t realize is that these small “store fronts” are actually mini restaurants.  You can walk and go into a back room with tables and chairs.  Not only that but they are jam-packed with students!

I happened to see a few of my students while walking by and stopped to talk to them.   They all told me this is where they always eat “dinner” before going to their private academies (aka hogwons).  There was copious amounts of ramyeon (the Korean version of ramen), meat on a stick, french fries, unidentified fried vegetables, popcorn, etc.  It definitely doesn’t seem very healthy to me so I was surprised when they told me they eat this kind of food everyday.  Side note: I’m absolutely convinced that 99% of Koreans have the natural skinny gene.  As we talked my students scarfed down their food so they could make it to their hogwons on time.

I spent a good amount of time just sitting with them, talking, and laughing with my students.  Some of them seemed absolutely terrified to see me outside of school while others hung all over me and enjoyed the company.  It made me feel really great.  A few of my students even bought me a “cup of chicken.”  It’s exactly what it sounds like and it was only 1000W (less than $1).  I’m not going to lie, it was pretty delicious, but what isn’t delicious when it’s deep fried and covered in sauce?  It was nice and incredibly refreshing to see these girls outside of the classroom and enjoying their friends.  My students really are sweethearts and I love them!

Write again soon,

Rachel

Suncheon Half Marathon

On Sunday I ran the Suncheon half marathon. I wanted to train and run the full but with our time restraints I didn’t think I could pull it off. I guess it will have to wait till spring.

After running 5K’s in the USA, I feel I have some interesting observations about the differences in races there and races here in Korea. Since I never ran a Half in the states some of this might be old news.

• The race packet: Mailed to every participant, nothing to pick up on race day. Complete with race book, shirt, number and chip (that was a part of the number and not returned)
• The race time:  The internet said 9, the countdown clock said 9, and the race packet said 10. Apparently they text messaged everyone the new start time, 9:30.
• Tons of aid stations, every 2-3 km after the first 5km. Aid stations had Pocari sweat (Korean Gatorade), water, food (IDK what kind, I just wanted water)
• There were 2 turn around checkpoints both with chip sensors.
• There were cars that drove against the grain with official race time on top.
• My favorite part was the medics, that had a helium balloon with a red cross on it and they RAN the whole race with a backpack of supplies to help people.
• There where also official pace setters with balloons and specific goal times.
• There were more police directing traffic than I have seen total combined in Korea.
• Koreans do not run with MP3 players, they LOVE technology, just not when running.
• The really hardcore guys did have fancy looking leg stickers that surrounded their muscles. (What are these?)
• Also the Korean fear of the sun was rampant. While serious runners dressed the part, there were also all kinds of ridiculous outfits for either fashion or sun protection.
• I also really liked the old guy that jump roped the whole race, way to be bad-a$$.
• In Korea, they just text you your official race time! I ran it in 02:12:44.81

Overall it was a pretty good race. I wish I could have done it quicker but a combination of daytime temperatures and it being the day after Rachel’s birthday party definitely affected the outcome.

-Nathan

찜질방

It’s time to talk about the naked place. In order to do so I must share a view casual observances.

1. To the knowledge of every Korean there are no gay Koreans.  Koreans insist that the few that are gay are Japanese. (not a joke)
2. Since there are (supposedly) no gay people here, things that Americans are too homophobic to do are okay here in Korea.
   1. Two boys sharing a bicycle by riding on each other’s laps.
   2. Constantly wearing flamboyant colors.
   3. Not only wearing pink but wearing bedazzled sparkly pink ties.
   4. Hug, caress, hold hands with, snuggle, and massage friends of the same gender in public
3. There is a proper dress and behavior for every situation. That behavior and dress is NOT representative of other situations.

So now that you know these things it will be a lot easier for me to describe the sauna. The Korean name is Jjimjilbang (찜질방). It is a public bathhouse divided into three areas. I will describe two of them since I have never been to the third area. The three areas are: men’s sauna, women’s sauna, and co-ed sauna.

The men’s sauna is a generic locker room, except it also has several TV’s a snack bar, a barbershop, and a smoking room. Attached to the locker room is the sauna.  Since EVERY PART of the men’s sauna is experienced completely nude, you must disrobe at your locker before going anywhere else. In the sauna part there is a steam room, a dry heat room, a still-water hot tub, an aerated-water hot tub, an ice water tub, a shallow lap pool, an outdoor balcony hot tub (still naked), standing and sitting showers.

You go in, scrub yourself very vigorously, and then enjoy all the different relaxation areas, in a giant group of naked men. Unlike in America, in this situation we just acknowledge everything. I have had people walk up to me and talk about my physique, and it is very common for people to look at and comment on just about every part of you. It’s not offensive, it’s just a running commentary. If you want you can even pay ₩40000 to lay on a massage table and have a man who works at the sauna scrub you head to toe.

Then, if you have had enough naked time you can put on the sauna-provided shorts and t-shirt, sans any sort of undergarment, and make your way to the coed area. Here there are hot rooms, but they are bigger, and there is even a hot nap room. There is also an ice room, a giant walk in fridge with ice on the walls. There are sleeping mats, TVs, computers, video games, and an eating area.

You can get all of this for under $10. The one I frequent is ₩7000 a visit. I don’t say “a day” because it’s no leaving once you pay but stay as long as you want since they are 24 hours. We have met several foreigners that, while traveling out-of-town, have just paid the small fee and stayed the night in a sauna instead of getting a hotel.

It is a great way to have access to tons of relaxation rooms, as long as you are not scared of being naked or having conversations in bad English while naked.

-Nathan

“A short picnic”

Yesterday my coteacher informed me that the staff at our school would go on a short picnic after school.  Unfortunately, that was all the info I was given.  In general, I tend to get very little details but I’m learning to adjust.  Honestly, I was just impressed that I was told an entire day in advance.

Now, what I didn’t realize was that “a short picnic” really meant an extremely long uphill hike to a temple.  I’m not going to lie, I was not pumped about the hike, especially since ALL my coworkers changed into full hiking gear and hiking boots.  I obviously missed the memo that we would be hiking so I was wearing my dress clothes and some flats.  Not quite the ideal hiking attire… and I have the blisters and sore feet to prove it. The rest of the evening made it well worth it though!

After our visit to the temple (which was GORGEOUS, but I didn’t have my camera for), we stopped to rest at a small restaurant.  It was here that my vice principal made it his mission to help me experience the 3 types of Korean alcohol.  First came the “makkoli” which is Korean rice wine… however my principal just kept insisting it was “Korean whiskey”, haha.  After resting for a while we moved on to a bigger restaurant where we ate dinner.  Here, my vice principal proceeded to serve me multiple soju shots.  (If you’re wondering, soju tastes like sweetened vodka if you ask me).  I know this sounds crazy, but it was actually a compliment that he kept serving me.  I, of course, in return, served him back.

Now I think most of you know I’m not a big drinker, but drinking here is such a strange thing… it’s actually kind of important, especially when being served by your boss and all your coworkers.  Thankfully I had a nice big meal to enjoy while attempting to maintain a sober state.  I suppose it was inevitable that the beer came out after dinner.  As my vice principal served me he made me stand up and then proceeded to interview me on my opinions of Korean alcohol… while the entire staff stared at me.  It was pretty embarrassing, but I know it was all in good fun.

After dinner I thought I was being given a ride home, but to my surprise my coteacher and I joined some fellow teachers for some major noribong-ing (if that’s a word).  I know a while back Nathan wrote a blog about  “noribongs”  (aka singing rooms), however, tonight I got to experience noribong like never before… with Koreans!  Most of these teachers are the 3rd grade teachers that I share an office with… so they don’t speak English.  No English?  No problem!  We basically took turns between Korean and English songs.  (Side note: I was pretty sad to discover they didn’t know ANY English songs… they didn’t even know who Elvis Presley are The Beatles were.  How is that even possible?!?).

Anyhow, it was an absolute blast.  They were so into it and jumping around dancing, singing their hearts out… and they cheered and cheered when I sang (which is probably the only situation in which people will EVER cheer for my singing).  See the video below if you want a glimpse of what it was like!

It’s amazing how different things are outside the school setting.  These people that are usually so serious and too tied up with work to really talk to me are actually incredibly funny, kind, and entertaining.  I really enjoyed seeing that part of them.  It was so fun!  I’m not sure how, but I know we broke some sort of cultural barrier tonight… in a good way.

In short, I’m thankful for today.  I’m thankful for the reminder of what an adventure living here can be.  I’m thankful that everyday is different, and that sometimes ordinary days can turn into amazingly fun days.  Ohhh Korea, where a “short picnic” can turn into a grand noribong adventure!

Until next time,

Rachel

P.S. If you’re interested, check out the noribong video here .